FIELD NOTES #17

Frederick,

MD.

Our last best hope for the East Coast takes a serious hit.

Dates

Oct 12 29 – Oct 19, 2026

Miles to camp

450

(2,874mi travelled so far)

Weather

34-89

Sunny

Symptom Score

14

(baseline: 23)

WOuld we return

Yes

Where We Stayed

AirBnB in Keedysville, MD 21756

  • This AirBnB is HUGE, not just “we lived in a camper for 3 months and now the house is huge”, but 6 bedrooms huge.
  • The house was fully stocked and had lots of toys and games for the kids including a pool table, ping-pong table, trampoline and swimming pool.
  • This house is a bad flip. Everything is painted, bugs and mice were everywhere, and in general just pretty beat up. It didn’t take away from the stay, but it was a bummer.
Overall Rating

How I Felt

During our stay my average score was 14. This week started out so promising, but ended with a strong flare, which likely eliminated this promising location.

What We Did

We did our best to take advantage of all the Frederick/Washington DC area had to offer. The Frederick area offered an amazing look into life during the Civil War and opportunities to enjoy the two mountains that surround the area.

We started the week with a short drive to South Mountain State park where we visited the George Washington Monument (different from the one in DC, but just as oddly shaped, it looked like a big stone honey pot) and walked a section of the Appalachian Trail. The boys decided for some reason they did no want to walk to Florida 🤷‍♂️.

The next day we rode the DC Metro subway to the National Zoo, which probably led to this stop’s best Gabe quote of “this is so absolutely amazing”, not to the zoo or a monument or the capital building…..but to the really escalator at the metro station that goes up from the Metro to the zoo. Our trip to the National Zoo was on a very hot day, but a very surprising amount of animals were out and about. The boys showed way more interest in our day there than I had anticipated and we actually ended up staying until closing time. Their favorites were the big cats and the small animal and reptiles houses.

On Thursday we were lucky enough to have Meg join us on a trip to DC because she actually need to run into the city for work. We all took the Metro again and after a short stop at ATF headquarters for Meg we headed over to the National Archives to see the Constitution, Declaration of Independence and more. Again I was surprised how interested the boys were in the history the Archives had to offer, maybe homeschooling is working! Afterward we headed over to the Museum of Natural History and walked a bit of the National Mall.

Friday was focused on the truck. I have been struggling with the steering ever since they worked on it in Maine (new track bar and lower ball joint) so I tried adjusting the steering gear box, it didn’t help much. I also replaced a bad rear brake caliper.

Saturday we headed to Harper’s Ferry National Park just over the river in West Virginia. The town changed hands eight times during the Civil War and was the site of the famous John Brown Raid just a couple of years before the start of Civil War. Again the boys ate up the history and we loved the scenery that Thomas Jefferson described as “perhaps one of the most stupendous scenes in Nature”. Afterwards we rode the beautifully groomed C&O bike trail about four miles to Brunswick, MD where we stopped by the local visitor’s center and museum. We were surprised to find how much there was to see there including an entire top floor dedicated to a model train exhibit and a detailed scavenger hunt the boys spent at least an half an hour completing.

Sunday we drove just five minutes from the rental home to Crystal Grottoes Caverns, an awesome cave that was discovered by county road workers in the 1920’s. It was not what we expected to find in Maryland and we all had a great time exploring the unique formations in the cave. Afterwards we went to South Mountain Creamery where we got some awesome ice cream and spent some time hanging out with some very friendly calves. Finally we stopped by Antietam National Battlefield, site of the deadliest day in any American war. The Civil War site was so close to the rental home that the property the rental home sits on was likely apart of the battle when it took place. The boys spent over an hour exploring the museum, watching a short history of the events that took place that day and walking through the cemetery.

Despite all of our fun during the weekend, Meg and I couldn’t help but feel the weight of loosing what had started to feel like our best remaining chance to stay on the eastern side of the country. Frederick checked almost every box we cared about: beautiful mountains and trails, good schools, access to Washington and Baltimore, reasonable housing costs, nearby services, and still being close enough to drive back to see family and friends.

That made the way my symptoms worsened near the end of our stay especially hard to accept. We were here in the fall, during a time of year when I had hoped the environmental load would already be lower. If I was struggling this much now, it was difficult not to imagine what spring and summer might look like.

The frustrating part is that we still don’t know exactly what happened. There were storms and pressure changes, nearby fields were being harvested, the grass around the house had recently been cut, and there are probably dozens of other environmental variables we weren’t measuring. Any one of them could have contributed—or none of them could have. That’s one of the hardest parts of this whole search: there is almost always a possible explanation, but rarely a way to know which explanation is the right one.

I don’t think one difficult week is enough to say that Frederick could never work for me. But it was enough that we couldn’t honestly keep treating it as the promising eastern option we had hoped it would be. That one hurt, because unlike many of the places we’ve crossed off along the way, Frederick wasn’t a place we were trying to convince ourselves to like. We already did.

Sometimes this journey feels like finding places we love and then waiting to see whether my body will let us keep them. This time, at least for now, the answer seems to be no.

Our Favorite Moment

Discovering that there is an awesome cave system just minutes from the rental house!

Observations

  • Limited sub-canopy
  • Very windy
  • Slightly higher elevation
  • Significant grasses and weeds
  • Lots of farms and farm activity
  • Mixed hardwood forests
  • Very high humidity.
  • Lots of low and wet areas

The Journey Continues

We are visiting 45 campgrounds in 300 days to find a place where our family thrives and my symptoms improve. Follow along as we share what we learn along the way

Graham Simplified

Scorecard

  • Symptom Relief

7 / 10

  • Access To Necessities

9 / 10

  • Livability

8 / 10

  • Activities/Sights

7 / 10

  • Food

7 / 10

  • Cost

7 / 10

  • Come Again?

Yes

Overall

8

/ 10
  • Quick Insights
  • Maryland started out surprisingly well. My symptom scores were between 9 and 12 for the first four days. I was able to spend eight hours at the National Zoo in DC and even go for a six-mile run afterward. It was an encouraging start.
  • But feeling better wasn’t the same as feeling well. My stamina was still limited, and the persistent cold sensation in my skin improved at times but never went away for an entire day.
  • Unfortunately, the improvement didn’t last. My symptom scores climbed to 17 and then 24, with significant fatigue, discomfort, and difficulty doing ordinary activities. We experienced changing weather and nearby agricultural activity, but there’s no way to know whether either contributed.
  • Maryland probably isn’t the answer we were hoping for. We’re visiting in October, when my symptoms have historically been more manageable than during spring and summer. If I’m already struggling here, it’s hard to imagine the more challenging seasons being consistently better. We can probably rule it out completely, which really is a hard pill to swallow given how well it fit our other goals.
  • Could We Live Here?
  • We could have, and honestly we were really hoping this one would work out. It was in our budget to buy a few acres in the couple of small mountains near Frederick. Services are readily available in Frederick, DC and Baltimore. It is close enough to MI to drive and the schools are great. It is a really hard one to let go given just how nicely it could have worked.
  • Biggest downside is beltway traffic, but the roads between here and Frederick were very quiet and easy to drive. The other concern is culture. We struggled with beltway “go-get-em” attitude and highly regulated culture the last time we lived in this area and weren’t looking forward to coming back to it.
  • Next Stop

Next we are headed to:

Grandfather Mountain, NC

This stop is purely for enjoyment and we are looking forward to meeting up with the ENTIRE Carter family crew!

Related Reflections

2 Comments

  1. I am enjoying your travelogue and information about the different climates and how they affect your symptoms! Your pictures are awesome seeing all the experiences you’ve had together. I loved the hiking with goats and was surprised they cooperated. Can’t wait to see your NC pictures!

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